The Destination
The crisp mountain air hits your face as the train glides out of Zermatt station, the iconic Matterhorn looming in the distance like a silent guardian. Inside, you're settled into a plush leather seat with a glass of Champagne in hand, the snow-capped peaks rolling past floor-to-ceiling windows. This is the Glacier Express Excellence Class—Switzerland's most luxurious train experience, and at $800 per person, it's a journey that promises as much opulence as it does alpine wonder.
The Glacier Express has long been famous as the "slowest express train in the world," connecting Zermatt to St. Moritz over 291 bridges and through 91 tunnels. But the Excellence Class, launched in 2019, elevates this seven-hour ride into an all-inclusive gourmet affair. It's not just transportation; it's a rolling five-star restaurant with a view. What makes it special right now is the growing trend of experiential luxury travel—people want to spend on memories, not just things. This train delivers that in spades, with only 20 seats per carriage ensuring an intimate, almost private-jet feel.
Getting There & Getting Around
Getting to the Glacier Express is part of the adventure. Zermatt, the starting point, is a car-free resort town accessible by train from major Swiss cities like Zurich or Geneva. From Zurich, it's about a 3.5-hour scenic ride via Visp. If you're flying in, Zurich Airport has direct train connections to Zermatt, and you can even check your luggage through. St. Moritz, the endpoint, is similarly well-connected, with a train station that feels like a Belle Époque time capsule.
For the Excellence Class, you must book in advance—ideally 3-6 months ahead, especially for summer and winter peak seasons. The train runs daily year-round, but the best time for clear views is May to October, when snow is less likely to obscure the landscape. Winter (December to March) offers a magical snow-capped panorama but can be cloudy. The journey takes about 8 hours one-way, but you can break it up by staying overnight in either Zermatt or St. Moritz. A Swiss Travel Pass can save you money on standard class, but Excellence Class is a separate, fixed-price ticket.
The Experience
The Excellence Class experience begins before you board. At Zermatt station, you're welcomed into a dedicated lounge with coffee and pastries, then escorted to your seat. The carriage is a masterpiece of design—panoramic windows that curve into the roof, individual temperature controls, and seats that recline into near-flat positions. The journey itself is a visual feast: the Rhine Gorge (Switzerland's mini-Grand Canyon), the Landwasser Viaduct (that iconic curved bridge you've seen in photos), and endless alpine meadows dotted with cowbells.
What surprised me most was the food. The Excellence Class includes a five-course lunch with wine pairings, prepared by a chef on board. Think smoked salmon with caviar, veal medallions with morel sauce, and a cheese course that rivals any Zurich restaurant. The service is impeccable—attentive but not intrusive, with a host who explains each dish and points out landmarks. The highlight for me was the dessert: a light lemon sorbet served as we crossed the Oberalp Pass at 2,033 meters, with snowflakes starting to fall outside.
For hidden gems, ask the staff about the "photo stops"—the train slows down at key viewpoints like the Muttler viewpoint or the village of Disentis. Don't just stay in your seat; the observation car (available to all first-class passengers) offers an open-air platform for fresh air and unfiltered photos. A tourist trap to avoid? Don't waste money on the overpriced souvenirs in the onboard shop—buy a Swiss army knife or chocolate at the station instead.
Costs & Budget
Let's talk numbers. The Glacier Express Excellence Class costs approximately $800 (CHF 690) per person for a one-way ticket, including all meals, drinks, and service. This is a splurge, no two ways about it. For comparison, standard first class costs around $200, and second class is about $150. If you're on a budget, the standard class still offers panoramic views and a dining car (pay extra for meals), but you'll miss the personalized service and gourmet experience.
Accommodation adds to the cost. Zermatt and St. Moritz are among Switzerland's priciest towns. Budget travelers can find hostels or Airbnb for $100-150 per night, while mid-range hotels run $250-400. Luxury hotels like the Mont Cervin Palace in Zermatt or Badrutt's Palace in St. Moritz start at $800 per night. For food outside the train, expect $30-50 for a casual meal, $100+ for fine dining. A Swiss Travel Pass (about $250 for 3 days) can help with other train travel but doesn't cover Excellence Class.
For mid-range travelers, I'd recommend doing the Excellence Class one-way and standard class the other way—you get the luxury experience without doubling the cost. Alternatively, book the Excellence Class for a special occasion (anniversary, birthday) and save on accommodation by staying in a simpler hotel.
For Travel Creators
This is a goldmine for content creators. The train's panoramic windows are perfect for time-lapse shots of the changing landscape. Best spots for footage: sit in the front or rear car (carriages 1 or 8) for unobstructed forward or backward views. The golden hour (early morning or late afternoon) casts a warm glow on the mountains—aim for a 9:00 AM departure from Zermatt for morning light. The open-air observation car is ideal for handheld shots, but be careful of wind noise—use a windscreen on your mic.
Lighting can be tricky inside the carriage due to reflections. Use a polarizing filter to reduce glare on the windows, and shoot at an angle to avoid capturing your own reflection. The staff are generally fine with filming, but ask permission before recording other passengers. For storytelling angles, focus on the contrast between the rugged alpine exterior and the luxurious interior—show the Champagne flutes against the snowy peaks. A great B-roll sequence: the train gliding over the Landwasser Viaduct, the chef plating a dish, and your reaction to the first bite. The locals (staff) will tell you that the best shots are at the Rhine Gorge, where the train crosses the bridge—position yourself on the right side of the carriage for this.
Should You Go?
If you're a luxury seeker, a couple celebrating a milestone, or a content creator looking for that bucket-list shot, yes—the Glacier Express Excellence Class is worth every Swiss franc. It's not for the budget backpacker or the traveler who gets bored sitting for 8 hours (though the scenery keeps you engaged). Solo travelers will enjoy the social dining experience—you're seated with others, so it's easy to strike up conversations. Families with young children might find the formal atmosphere restrictive; the standard class is more relaxed. For digital nomads, the train has decent Wi-Fi, but the constant scenery might distract you from work. In short, this is a once-in-a-lifetime splurge that delivers on its promise of luxury, but only if you're ready to pay for it.
